I went with the excitement of fulfilling the first wish of the new year.
Transportation:
I took the bullet train from Beijing to Harbin both ways. It’s quite convenient, taking about 8 hours and 10 minutes. But make sure to choose your travel time wisely. Actually, there’s one approach I’d recommend: take an overnight sleeper train departing in the evening and arriving the next day. This way you can save a night’s accommodation cost.
The arrival station is Harbin West Railway Station, which is quite far from the city center. However, you can take a taxi from the taxi stand at Harbin West station. I assumed taxis at the train station would be reliable, but it turned out to be slightly disappointing. I had called the hotel staff in Harbin beforehand asking how much a taxi from the station to the hotel would cost. They said about 25 RMB, or 30 at night.
After I got in the taxi, I opened Baidu Maps, which also estimated about 26 RMB. I felt at ease – until I noticed the driver was taking a longer route. The driver enthusiastically explained that this road had fewer traffic lights and less congestion. But it was already 11 PM. I said nothing. The fare was 38 RMB. When I pointed out the issue, the driver calmly offered a bunch of excuses that I didn’t consider valid [“I don’t care about your 1-2 extra RMB; sitting in traffic costs money too”]. I said nothing. OK, paid and got out.
Travel tip: Book an overnight hard sleeper arriving the next day; keep your eyes open after getting in a taxi, agree on the route in advance. Xizhi Street in the city center does indeed have many traffic lights.
Accommodation:
I booked a Home Inn. I personally quite like staying at Home Inn – good value for money. This time, however, there were a few issues:
The Gold Card comes with free breakfast, but the voucher says it must be used within 5 days. On the last day, I brought the vouchers I had saved up, only to find none of them could be used. The staff gave me no reasonable explanation – just “you can’t use them, deal with it.”
If you can book online, pay online. I ran into an awkward issue: my room rates should have been 184, 166, 166, 166. But the staff charged me 184 every day. Fortunately, I caught the problem and got it resolved.
Bring some cash. You must pay a deposit at check-in, or they absolutely won’t let you stay – even bank cards weren’t accepted. And it was almost midnight.
Travel tip: I later complained to headquarters, and the operations manager apologized, which I was satisfied with – after all, I wasn’t trying to cause trouble, just felt wronged. So I still recommend Home Inn, with these suggestions: book and pay online in advance; bring some cash just in case; check the charges carefully; confirm any promotional offers.
Food:
Dining in Harbin has two somewhat unpleasant aspects: 1. Napkins aren’t free – you need to buy them yourself; 2. You may need to share a table with strangers.
I had spring pancakes:
For spring pancakes you need to share a table and buy your own napkins. But the taste was decent. I recommend Maomao Spring Pancakes and Laochang Spring Pancakes.
Had hot cola:
Ginger cola – available everywhere on Central Street. Be careful though, it spills easily. I saw 2-3 people spill theirs.
Had rice cake hotpot:
The restaurant is in Ha Yi Bai (Harbin No.1 Department Store). This pot costs 59 RMB and comes with two drinks and kimchi. The staff is friendly, there’s wifi, and I highly recommend this place. It’s called Congee Story.
Had desserts:
This dessert shop is quite famous – it’s called “Pack Happiness” and is on Central Street. A bit pricey though. The taste is decent, suitable for artsy types. I did get a stomachache that evening – not sure if it was related to their yogurt. I still recommend this place overall.
Had Thai food:
Thai cuisine. I couldn’t quite get used to the taste. It’s in an alley off Central Street. Overall it’s OK, but if you’re not a big fan of Thai food, proceed with caution.
Travel tip: Bring your own napkins, try to use group-buy deals, and avoid peak dining hours.
Search on Dianping: Maomao Spring Pancakes | Laochang Spring Pancakes | Pack Happiness | Impression Thai Southeast Asian Restaurant
Attractions:
Ice and Snow World: Just take the bus there – don’t listen to tour salespeople. Bring your student ID.
Saint Sophia Cathedral: Don’t go inside. Just enjoy the pigeons from outside.